Chef Luís Gaspar’s “Brilhante” addition to Cais de Sodré’s dining scene takes us back to days gone by, in an eclectic, velveteen French brasserie. On the stage playing a supporting role are French classics, but the star of the show is the steak a la Marrare and adopted as a Portuguese institution in the classic cafes and hidden bars of old Lisbon. Luís’ take, though a secret, is quite sensational and satiating.