The former Feitoria chef and Paradigma group opened a "product-centred restaurant" that is an ode to Lisbon's dying spaces – an opening hailed in the city with pomp and circumstance. In this modern casa de pasto with cod cakes, scarlet prawns, a TV set and daily specials for lunch, João Rodrigues works hand in hand with Brazilian Lívia Orofino, with whom he worked for four years at Feitoria. Daniel Costa e Silva runs the wine list, focusing mainly on small producers, with around 60 references.

Insider tip: Ask the staff what special products of the day are off the menu – there are always good surprises.