- Insiders Profile -

Francisco Lacerda

Owner of Bica do Sapato

Perched along the Tagus River, Bica do Sapato has long been one of Lisbon’s most iconic dining addresses. Under the stewardship of Francisco Lacerda, the restaurant continues to evolve while preserving the spirit that made it a landmark:  generous hospitality, great food, and one of the city’s most beautiful views.

This year, Bica do Sapato will host the Opening Dinner of Lisbon Insiders Restaurant Week, welcoming guests for a special evening that celebrates the vibrant energy of Lisbon’s culinary scene. We spoke with Francisco about the story behind the restaurant, the philosophy guiding his team, and what guests can expect from this opening night.


◆ To begin, could you introduce yourself and tell us about your journey with Bica do Sapato?

I was born and grew up in Lisbon, and was lucky enough to have had the opportunity to study and live abroad, from Barcelona to Rome, then to Mexico City. In 2018, I moved back to Lisbon directly from Mexico. The move happened just as the hype around Lisbon was beginning. Lisbon was on the tip of everyone’s tongue. New projects and concepts were popping up everywhere. 

The opportunity arose back in 2018 when I was looking at some potential real estate investments, and I found Bica. I immediately got excited about bringing back such an iconic staple of this city. It was a chance to apply what I have seen and experienced throughout my years abroad.

◆  If you had to describe Bica do Sapato in just three words, what would they be?

Portuguese, modern, artsy.

◆ Bica do Sapato is one of Lisbon’s most recognizable restaurants. What do you think makes it such a special place for locals and visitors alike?

Bica do Sapato's history and location are part of the collective memory of Lisbon’s most inspiring citizens. The history of the founders who dared to dream bigger than the city and the not-so-obvious location – a part of the city that was forgotten – together with Lux Frágil, created this unique riverside bohemian experience. 

It’s very inspiring to see that Bica Sapato came to life almost 30 years ago in this area of town that only now is starting to have a life of its own.

◆ The restaurant has an incredible location by the river. How does this setting influence the atmosphere and the experience you want to create?

Bica do Sapato is a perfect place for a quiet lunch by the river, just 10 minutes from the city center. It has its own ethos and energy. The idea is to feel the proximity to the historical part of town whilst relaxing by the riverfront, enjoying good food and a friendly atmosphere.

Bica do Sapato

◆ This year, you hosted the Opening Dinner of the Lisbon Insiders Restaurant Week. What made you want to be part of the initiative?

Bica was always a place where different tribes would congregate, where different communities would share a drink, a dinner, or a simple evening of good conversation and music. Sometimes, even witness unlikely encounters. Lisbon Insiders has an important role in introducing new hot spots for the expat community, but also for the curious Portuguese. This event is all about bringing them together.
 

◆ What do you think guests were expecting from this special evening at Bica do Sapato?

Great food, thoughtful music, and the atmosphere of an iconic venue, but above all, a dinner shaped by a strong artistic vision. Throughout the evening, a series of performances unfolded as an integral part of the experience, conceived in dialogue with the history and architecture of Bica do Sapato. 

Bica do Sapato and Lisbon Insiders share the same ambition: bringing different worlds into dialogue at a time when algorithms tend to keep us apart.

◆ The Restaurant Week celebrates the diversity of Lisbon’s dining scene. How do you see Bica do Sapato contributing to that story?

This restaurant is 100% designed by Portuguese architects, designers, and artists. We respect the history of the restaurant so much that in order to change it, we had to do something special that respected its heritage. In a time of such great change, we wanted to maintain the essence and power of this iconic place, whilst bringing in updates from the present.

Food at Bica do Sapato

◆ Running a restaurant is both an art and a constant challenge. What motivates you most in this industry today?

In a project this size, it is all about the people. The effort that everyone puts in every day.  Working on a project like this has to be a passion thing. I am proudly responsible for maintaining the brand alive, but it isn’t mine, nor is it a result of what I do. It belongs to Lisbon and will be what Lisbon makes of it. 
 

◆ How have you seen Lisbon’s restaurant scene evolve over the past years?

Lisbon is changing a lot, and the restaurant scene has diversified tremendously. The fact that our gastronomy is being more valued is a good thing; however, I feel everything is becoming a bit gentrified. I hope Lisbon maintains its rustic characteristics.
 

◆ When you’re not at Bica do Sapato, where do you personally like to go eat or relax in Lisbon?

Going to restaurants and having different experiences is one of the things that I most appreciate, and every restaurant is a type of food and experience. I can go from a nose-to-tail experience to fine dining, but I tend to prefer more laid-back experiences.

Taberna Os Papagaios is an amazing modern version of the Portuguese tasca, where you can dare to try some traditional offal dishes. Ritalinos is also a very good and traditional restaurant.

Da Noi is always a fun place to go, which always delivers a good experience, good cocktails, and good music. Gambrinus is probably the most iconic place in Lisbon, and there is a reason why. My favorites are probably Magano, where everything is outstanding, and Mar do Inferno, where you’ll find the best seafood.

Os Papagaios

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